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September 2007
Bocas del
Toro and
Rio Chagres River, Panama |
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9/1 |
We are currently back in Bocas Yacht
Marina for a few more weeks, attempting to get projects done before we
head back out to anchor in nearby beautiful coves. It gets
so hot in the marina, that we must get our work done in the morning
before the afternoon sun and heat. There are also no-see-ums (chitras) in the
marina. We have discovered a soap you can lather up with
that repels the no-see-ums, so we use it religiously. But,
you can tell immediately when the soap wears off. Attack!
Or, just wear long sleeves and pants. |
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9/2 |
Sonny changed the oil in our new dinghy motor and Kay
varnished the last coat on the combing in the cockpit early in the morning.

During the afternoon, we stayed down below, turned
on the a/c and watched movies and kept up with Hurricane Felix.
Too hot outside. |
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9/3 |
This morning, after pancakes and juice, we headed out
to change the grease in the lower unit on the dinghy motor while it
was still up on the davits. Very tricky task.......we had both
screws out, and Sonny began filling the grease in the lower screw, and
then asked me to quickly replace the screw when it was full, as to not
loose any grease. OK....sounds easy.....I was ready
and waiting when he pulled the grease container away, it hit my hand,
which, in turn, the small gray screw with the washer went tumbling into
the water, and appeared to be in slow motion. Ut-Oh! So,
Sonny donned his swimming suit and snorkel and fins, and, after a few
tries, retrieved the screw. Then, mission accomplished.
Kay began repainting Valentina's name on the side of
the boat. This has not been a good day. While in the
dinghy with the green paint, little rolling waves, and trying to hold
on.......and paint, I spilled the green paint in our new dinghy.
Thank goodness for paint thinner! All is well.
We are thankfully safe and sound in Bocas del
Toro as Hurricane Felix pounds his way 350 miles north of us through
some of our most favorite spots. It has been hot here with a
little rain. |
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9/5 |
The power was off at the marina this morning, so we
went to town to get new boards to replace our existing ones that we
secure our jerry cans on deck. When we got back to the
boat at 11:10 a.m., there was a note in our cockpit. It was from
Marjorie and Estelle.
Today was the day they wanted us to go to their
school at noon for the raffle drawing for the tickets we purchased
from them. So, we went back to town to their school. The
children are all obedient, very pleasant, and loved to have their
picture taken, then look at it on the display afterwards.
We first met Estelle and Marjorie in Key West, and
they could not speak English as they just arrived from France.
Today, they both speak French, English, and now Spanish.
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9/6 |
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It is oil changing time on the generator.
Sonny has to get down in the small lazarette to
do this project. |
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9/7 |
Today, we changed the oil in the engine, now all systems should be
ready to anchor out and enjoy our time on anchor.
We also started
making new racks to hold our jerry cans for fuel on the deck.
We drilled the holes and started putting the varnish on.
It is so humid here, it is taking two days for the varnish to dry.
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9/8 |
Play Day!
We went with Roberto and Any, S/V Deux Pieds in our dinghies to Red
Frog Beach to play for the day.
It was a good break from our projects.
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9/9 |
Happy 11th Birthday today to our grand-daughter, Ashley.

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9/10 |
Today is Greg on Lone Star Love's Birthday. So, we are getting
everyone together tonight at the restaurant after Bruno's meatloaf
dinner for birthday cake. I also made him a pecan pie.
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9/12 |
Today was our 30 day immigration
re-check to take the exciting 45 minute water taxi ride to Changuinola.
We left at 6:45 a.m. from our dock and by 9 o'clock, we had
already taken our 5 mariner's passports to Bonita to be updated for 30
more days and in a restaurant for breakfast. Panamanian
officials are implementing new procedures, and each month, although it
is different, are perfecting the system slowly but surely.
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Along the road on the way to immigration is a banana
plantation for Chiquita banana. There is a conveyor belt that
carries the bananas to the factory, where they are washed and boxed.
Ready to ship out.
When we were waiting for the water taxi to take us
back to Bocas, Sonny began asking the locals for some bananas.
The plantation is only one block away from the dock. At
first, they began saying, "No, no....but, then, before we knew it, we
had purchased two boxes for $5 each. Beautiful bananas,
you cannot buy any good ones here because they are all shipped to the
States. Our only problem will be.....they will all ripen at the
same time! Looks like banana pudding, banana bread, cereal with
bananas, banana drinks, etc.
We gave one box to Lone Star Love and Adagio to
share and gave away bunches of our other box. So, we will not
have quite so many. |
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9/13 |
Today is moving day.....we will be leaving the marina
in the morning to anchor out and explore the islands in the Bocas
area.

Since there was no wind, we motored the 2 hour trip
over to Dolphin Bay. We anchored in Boca Torritos and it is so
nice and quiet. It is so good to be out again.
It is taking us a while to get back in the groove of life on the hook,
as it has been three months in the marina. We like it out here.
We will not have access to the internet, so we will
update the website as we come into civilization every few weeks.
We will also check our hotmail email account when we
come to shore.
You can email us on our boat address at winlink.
If you want our winlink address, just send us an email and we will
include you in our white list for winlink.
We will keep our position report updated on the home page, "Where is
Valentina" while we are out. Thanks! See you soon! |
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9/14 |
We were awaken this morning by the sound of dolphins
swimming around the boat and coming up for air. We both jumped
out of bed to go see them. Being on anchor is such a joy.
Every day is filled with sunrises, sunsets, moon watching, stars,
dolphins swimming nearby, and just enjoying God's beauty in a
simplified lifestyle. We sure do like it.
It rained all morning, so early this afternoon, we put
the dinghy down and went exploring. It was awesome.
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We were going
down between islands in our dinghy when we saw all of these people
on their dock, outside, waving at us to come their direction.
So, we did.....we met them and
talked to them for a while. The father works at a
finka (farm) near our boat. All of these are his children.
The young lady on the right has twins, probably 8 months old.
The board at the door to their house in the picture, keeps the
babies inside. Nice family....nice people. The
boys had made a boat to play with, which is floating in the water. |
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The country is so beautiful here. |
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Beautiful country. Mountains,
green, green forests, palm trees, The beauty of this photo explains it
all.......tranquility.

Tonight, we, along with Bruadair and Lone Star Love
went ashore to a local restaurant. Santos, the cook, was
teaching us how to make coconut beans and rice.
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David
was writing down the instructions while I took pictures and
Santos' nephew translated. |
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9/15 |
This morning, we all pulled up our anchors and headed a
couple of miles away to a place called the "Dark Land". It is
absolutely the most beautiful anchorage we have been in yet.
Again, we have to say, "It cannot get any better than this......and it
continually does. Just Beautiful.
Upon our arrival to this remote place, we were met
by young boys, Louis and Kennedy in their cayucas. They
held on to the side of the boat and asked for clothes, scissors to cut
their hair, magazines, books, pens, paper, candy, money to buy a soda,
and fish hooks. They are very poor Indians and have very
little.....with very large families.

We also met Raul, of Jamaican descent. He
owns 27 acres and a very small tienda.
He showed Greg, Sonny and I around his Finca.
We walked up hills and could see the islands all
around us.
He grows plantains, bananas, ginger, tomatoes, and
local squash. Raul also showed us in his very nice home, with no
front door and chickens and a turkey running wild throughout.
Another calm, beautiful anchorage. |
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9/17 |
We dinghied around today exploring the nearby islands.
We met several gringos who have chosen to leave the states and build
their retirement homes here. It entails an enormous amount
of work and patience. Not something we want to tackle.
We love learning the schedules of the locals, when the
father rows by on his way to work, the mother taking her children in
their nice, clean uniforms to school, and returning with them in the afternoon, and the men
and boys out trying to catch fish for their dinner.
On their way to school, the primary grades wear white shirts
and dark blue pants and the secondary children wear light blue
shirts with dark blue pants/skirts. |
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Did I mention....it is beautiful?
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9/18 |
Today, we pulled up anchor and motored a few miles away
to Camryka Land. Mary and Carl on S/V Camryka purchased property
in this bay and are in the process of building a new house.
Davids
and Linda Serruti are also in the cove. They are the owners of
Green Acres, a beautiful finca where they harvest cocoa. We
purchased a pound of cocoa from them for $8 that they had grown and
harvested. Anxious to make some no-bake cookies with it.
They have a beautiful property that is manicured and their daily hard
work and love shows.
We anchored back in
behind Bocas Marina after topping our diesel tank at the marina.
We went into town and went to the Port Captain's office to get our
zarpe to leave Bocas for Colon. We will leave in the
morning with Queen Mary for the Rio Chagres. It is 130
miles and ~24 hour trip. You have a 2 knot current pushing
you, so it is a good overnight trip. |
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9/19 |
We pulled up anchors on Queen Mary and Valentina at
8:45 a.m. and waved goodbye to our friends on Lone Star Love.
It was a dreary, rainy morning, but after we got out of the channel of
Bocas the sun began to peek out of the clouds and the skies began to
clear. A good day for a crossing. The seas are
calm, the wind is calm, and we are calm.....no, we are excited.
We snagged a mackerel as we were coming out of the channel at Bocas so
we cleaned him and put him in the fridge for later. |
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9/20 |
As the sun came up this morning, we could see the
mainland of Panama.

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Then, we could see all of these ships in a straight
line. They were waiting their turn to go through the
Canal.
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We followed our waypoints and Queen Mary into the
Rio Chagres River, which is the dam that supplies the water for the
Panama Canal.
We meandered up the river passing S/V Kristiana,
S/V Dragonet, S/V Barefoot, S/V She Wolf, and S/V Adagio. We
went to the next bend in the river and dropped anchors.
The howler monkeys were not happy with our selection. They
loudly let us know of their displeasure. We are anchored near
the shore line, which is a canopy of huge trees and thick forest.
The river is fresh water, but there are crocodiles who reside here.
Sonny continually jumps in the cool water, but I encourage him to "get
out quick!".

We continually say, "It just does not get any better
than this.....and then it does". This is just awesome.
Each place is totally different with its own personality and culture.
We love it! Life is so good to us. We are
thankful.

Today at five o'clock, five of the boat anchored in
the area, met upstream with our drinks and snacks and tied our
dinghies together and floated down the river like ants on a log. It was just
awesome. I think this could be habit-forming though.
But....that is OK.

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9/21 |
Exploring day in the dinghy. Here in the Rio Chagres,
there are all kinds of little rivers feeding into the big river, so we
take our dinghy and go into the openings. Some are maybe
10' wide, most have tree branches and vines hanging down you have to
dodge and go under. We came to a tree that had fallen
across the river and......we went under it......barely.
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If the tide came up while we were
on the other side, we may have had a problem getting back under.
It was fun. |
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9/22 |
Another exploring day. We went with Gene and Brenda up the
river a couple of miles to the dam.

The Rio Chagres River
was dammed in 1910 to create the Gatun Lake and supplies the water for
the locks of the Panama Canal. The river is 6 miles long
and is a beautiful tropical river, a magical and mystical place,
surrounded by virgin rainforest. We have seen parrots,
monkeys, a crocodile, and toucans. I think we are in the
middle of the zoo.
We tied the dinghies to the small dock and walked
the trail up to the dam about 1/2 mile away. We could see the
ships going through the Gatun Locks. It was awesome.
On our return, we explored the small inlet rivers. Gene
told Sonny there was a sunken cayuca up further ahead, so we went to
check it out. Of course, Sonny said, our grandkids would
have a time with this when they arrive in December, so the bailing
began. Gene and Sonny bailed the water out of the cayuca
and we tied a line to it and towed it home. There are holes
in the wood where the local had poked pieces of material to keep the
water out. It was no longer working. The water pours
in. But, nothing that a bunch of 5200 could not fix.
Hopefully.....
After we got it to the boat, Sonny jumped in it and began rowing
around. He would have to pump out the water often.
He went over to Gene and Brenda, in their dinghy, and they pumped a while, then on to
Steve and Mary and they pumped a while. It is nice having
pump out stations so nearby.
Tonight was music night on Queen Mary. It was good to
be back with them singing and playing. Ten people were in the
cockpit, Adagio, Barefoot, She Wolf, Valentina, and Queen Mary.
Happy Birthday, Madonna, our daughter-in law.
and Ken Kruse, of Bear Necessity.
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9/23 |
Another exploring day.....we took off in our dinghies and headed up
river to the mouth of the Rio Chagres to Fort San Lorenzo high atop of
the hill. We parked our dinghies and walked about a mile to the
Fort. What a view! You can see up the river and the
Caribbean.

Then, we went to the swimming pool. Well, it
is really not a swimming pool, but there is a beautiful water fall
that drops 10' into a pool of water, which runs down to another pool
and another. We took snacks and played in the cold,
refreshing water and enjoyed the day.
We explored the creeks along the way back. We spotted a
sloth today. Not close enough to see if he had two or
three toes though.
Gotta run.....it is five o'clock and time to float down the river. |
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9/25 |
It is time to wash clothes. We loaded up
our clothes, soap, and scrub board in the dinghy and headed to the
fresh water waterfall and pools to wash our clothes in the fresh
water. It was cool sitting in the water and washing our
clothes until the storm came by. We had all of our clothes all
soaped up when the water in the stream coming down the waterfall began
getting muddy and coming faster and faster. We got
our clothes back in the dinghy and waited for the storm to pass
overhead. Then, we went back to our boats and rinsed the
clothes in the river and hung them out to dry on the lines on the
boat.

Happy Birthday David, our son-in-law. |
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9/26 |
Today's field trip was to dinghy up to the Gatun Dam
and walk to the Gatun Locks of the Panama Canal. It was so
massive and awesome.
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From where you stand in the visitor's center, you
are probably 25' from the ships that pass through the canal.
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Happy Birthday to
Karyn from S/V Suenos today. We miss you.

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9/27 |
Happy Birthday today to Billy Sides, Sonny's "little"
brother.

We moved around to Colon, where the ships enter the
Panama Canal from the Atlantic side. We are anchored less than
one mile of the channel where the ships pass. It is hard
to sleep from watching all of the activities and excitement all around
you. We will go back to the quiet Rio Chagres River in a few
days. |
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9/30 |
We are provisioned and updated the website, so we will
head back to the Rio Chagres River for another week or more. |
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