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10/7
10/15
10/21

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10/1 |
After spending a few days anchored in the flats at Colon and watching
the huge ships coming and going through the Panama Canal, we
provisioned and pulled up anchor and headed back to the tranquil Rio
Chagres River.

It is just absolutely beautiful here. We have seen
several breeds of monkeys, a sloth, toucans, and parrots.
You just anchor in the river and the rainforest is on both sides of
you, so you can watch the monkeys as they pass by, rustling through
the trees. The howler monkeys are very small, but make a
very loud roar. In the states, you are awaken by barking
dogs, here is it howler monkeys. But, when we hear them,
we both jump out of bed and hit the deck running to see them.
We are a few miles downstream from the Gatun Dam, which supplies
the water for the locks in the canal, and during rainy season, they
have more water than the locks can use, so they let water out of the
dam. There is a constant one - two knot current of
fresh water running
downstream in the river. It is rainy season, so it
rains often.
One of our favorite pastimes in the evening, the cruisers in
the river get together and meet upstream in dinghies at about 5:15
p.m. We each bring drinks and snacks, and we
tie all of the dinghies together and float down the peaceful river for
several hours discussing what exciting things we saw today.
Gary, on Kaija Song, saw a big black cat, a panther? John and
Diana, on Dragonet, spotted a 12' crocodile in one of the creeks.

Jeremy of S/V Max climbed aboard his sailboat on top of his boom
to capture this photo as we passed by.
Sailors from Max, Neos, Imagine, Dragonet, Queen Mary, Barefoot,
Second Wind
and Valentina floating down the river.
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10/2 |
Last night, we were visited by mosquitoes and honey bees, so we moved
upstream to get a better breeze without bugs. We did a dinghy river
float this evening, eight dinghies......fun.
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10/3 |
We went down to the waterfall this afternoon and played in the water
along with Queen Mary, (Gene and Brenda), Max (Jeremy and
Crystal) and Dragonet (John and Diana). It is paradise.
Beautiful.

I made banana pudding today with the rest of our bananas
that we have carried around for weeks, waiting to get ripe.
When they get ripe, they all get ripe, so we are now banana-free.
Music on Queen Mary night, we joined Barefoot (Steve and Mary), Max
(Jeremy and Crystal) and Gene and Brenda for some music.
They played about an hour, when some strange wasp with white bodies
started flying around the boat. There were more and more.
All of a sudden, Gene got stung by about 4 or 5 of them, so we all
left the cockpit and started spraying them. They left.
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And the music resumed. |
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10/6 |
Boat Project Day......we worked today on installing a 12-volt outlet
so we can charge the laptops inside on 12 volts, and our generator
quit while running this morning, so Sonny replaced the impeller and a
fuse. It is down in a lazarette in the cockpit, not much
room at all, and the generator is so compact, that working on it is
nearly impossible. But, what a relief when we got it done.
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10/7 |
Our friends from Blow Me Away and Kaija Song came floating into the
river today from the Bocas area. The three of us left the
Rio Dulce River one year ago, and now are re-joined again. It
was good to reunite with them again.
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10/10 |
We are going to go to Shelter Bay Marina today to update the website
and do some internet work. It is more difficult getting
internet here than anywhere we have been. So, we will
continue to update as often as we can. So glad you are keeping
up with us. |
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10/15 |
Our friends, Steve and Colleen from Kemah (who also are proud owners
of a Tayana 37, named Anchor Management) arrived today. They
came to Panama and toured the canal locks in Panama City, then flew to
San Blas to spend a few days there, then back to Panama City.
Our taxi driver in Panama City, Tony, picked them up and brought them
to the boat dock, here in the river, where we picked them up
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It is
so good to visit with old friends and ones who will be cruising on
their boat in the near future. We are glad they are staying on
the boat so they can see what how rewarding the cruising lifestyle is.
We showed them some of the small rivers off the Rio Chagres and saw
a troop of howler monkeys. We were in our dinghy in the
river watching them crawl around, when, all of a sudden, Steve
sneezed, and one monkey was startled, and fell down about 15 feet,
only to grab another branch with his tail. Wish we would
have had the video camera on that one. We went to the beautiful
waterfall and played in the water.
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Our best monkey picture, taken by Brenda on Queen Mary |
A troop of monkeys in the tree. also taken by Brenda. |
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10/16 |
This morning, after breakfast, Sonny, Steve and Colleen took the
dinghy up to the dam to go to the Gatun Locks. Such an
impressive place. Kay stayed on the boat and baked a couple of
pecan pies. On the path, they saw lots of howler monkeys, an
anteater, and a capincho. The anteater stood up on his
back hind legs and raised his arms at them, at about 10 feet away.
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10/17 |
There are so many animals in the rainforest. Every day is
a new day to see what you will find. It is such a magical
place. |
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10/18 |
This morning, we had a few projects to do on the boat, then we
dinghied up the river (5 miles) to the entrance from the sea where
Fort Lorenzo is high on the hill. After walking around the
fort, we all were ready for the "cold" water of the waterfall and ate
lunch at the waterfalls.
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Today, we explored more and played music on Queen Mary.
Gene and Brenda also had guests aboard, long-time friend Al and his
new wife, Ophelia from Colombia. |
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10/19 |
This morning, we left at 7:15 a.m. and motored (no wind) to Portobelo,
Panama..
We had the fishing line out the whole way and did not catch
anything. So about 3 miles out, Kay started to put it up and
Sonny said, "No, let's leave it out....well, about one mile later, we
caught a little tunny. Steve and Colleen reeled him in.
He was a nice one.
On the 21st of October, Portobelo celebrates the huge
festival of the Black Christ. We arrived at about 12:30
p.m. and went to town after a small rain shower.
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Colleen standing by a chicken bus. |

A company was interviewing us to see how we
liked Portobelo after we just came to shore, so we just said, "We
want to see the Black Christ and eat".
I think our interview will be cut.
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Church of San Felipe that houses the Black Christ |

The statue of the "Black Christ" in the Catholic
Church.
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Our first person we saw walking into the village
was an elderly man with a limp. We saw him as he turned the
final corner to the church and could see his relief and reverence
that he had made it. He made the blessing sign of the cross from this
forehead, to chest and side to side. Kay met up with him
later and talked with him. He said he was 60 years old
and had walked three days to get here. This is his
39th consecutive year walking here. He said he
resembles the Black Christ. |
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Friends, Lyla, Kaija, Mary and Steve
Aaron and Gary
Aaron and Lyla on "Blow Me Away"
Kaija and Gary on "Kaija's Song"
Steve and Mary on "Barefoot"
Steve and Colleen left this evening for Panama City to prepare for
their trip back to Kemah. We sure enjoyed them on board
and had a lot of fun with them. We plan to meet up with
them on their Tayana, Anchor Management, in the near future in the
Caribbean. |
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10/20 |
We had to replace the belt on our generator this morning, then we went
into town with Gene and Brenda (Queen Mary). We ate all
the good food from the street vendors. It was like being
at the State Fair. We ate and ate....and ate.
One of the
policemen told us that there would be 300 policemen in the village and
over 200,000 people would come to Portobelo to participate in the
annual Black Christ festival.
This is a very, very small village with only two streets. 200,000
people? Many come on a bus, go to pay their tribute to the
"Black Christ" and return.
This afternoon, when we were in town. people were already beginning
to come into town. It is told that people will walk for
days, in the purple robes, to get to Portobelo to see the Black Christ
and seek forgiveness of their sins.
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In the church, they
brought the statue of the Black Christ from behind the glass into
the sanctuary, During the procession from 8 p.m. to midnight
on the 21st, there are 80 men
carrying it, and they take three steps forward and two steps
backwards. That must be why it takes four hours for the
procession through town. |
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First, we saw this lady scooting to the church on her bottom, then she would turn around and crawl on her hands and knees. |
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Then, we saw this man, further
from the church, inching his way down the street on his back,
rolling from side to side.
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These men said they walked for two days
to get here.
They came from Panama City. |
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10/21 |
This morning, as we woke up at 6 a.m. we could hear the sound of horns
and sirens, so we went to the cockpit to see what was happening.
We are on the other side of Portobelo Bay, about one mile away to the
village. We could see a solid line of
people along the street coming into the village. There is a
police check point that checks every person for identification before
they are allowed to come in. |
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The Legend of the Black Christ Festival
El Cristo Negro
The most popular version of the Black Christ story says
a ship left Portobelo for Cartagena, Colombia during the last half of the
17th Century. It had in its cargo hold a religious article packed in a
large crate, which was consigned to Cartagena. As the ship
left Portobelo, a terrible storm drove the vessel back into the
harbor. Five times - according to legend - the Captain
tried to sail away' each time the tempest returned without warning
causing the ship to be in great peril. During the final attempt,
the crew - fearing for their lives - lightened the ship by casting the
heavy box overboard. When
fishermen from Portobelo discovered the box with the image of Jesus
floating in the water, they were astonished at the lack of respect
shown by the sailors and they carried the image to their church to
give it a place of honor. Now, he resides in Iglesia San
Felipe. |
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10/23 |
Today, we rose early and left the dinghy dock at 5:15
a.m. to catch the early bus to Colon, then switch to another bus to
Panama City with Gene and Brenda (Queen Mary). We had a
good trip, picked up a blower for our battery compartment, a thru hull
to replace the one that is broken, and lots of other boat parts.
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The chicken bus is very crowded,
with people standing the whole trip, very noisy, with the radio on
as loud as possible and very decorated, with lights flashing and
pictures painted on the outside and inside. |
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We had the joy of this young lady sharing our seat
with us along the way. She is on her way to school in the
City and is studying English. She was very pleasant and
sweet. When she got off the bus, she stood there, waving
goodbye to us.
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10/24 |
Today, we rode another Chicken Bus to Colon to get our
zarpe from the Port Captain, so we can leave this region.
We will head down to Linton, and then Porveneir. We
stocked up on some last minute supplies before we head to San Blas,
where supplies are very limited. |
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10/25 |
Happy 4th Anniversary today to Garrett and Madonna.
It is also....our 16th wedding anniversary.
We are hoping to pick up our bottom paint today. It is
amazing how your wants and needs change while cruising.
Bottom paint is one of our best anniversary gifts to each other.
Whatever it takes to stay cruising is worth it. Life is
good. |
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10/26 |
Well, our bottom paint did not arrive.
Maybe two more weeks he said. Life in Central America is
always exciting. |
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10/28 |
Even in paradise, life does get rough sometimes,
literally. We are still anchored in the perfect
anchorage, surrounded by mountains on every side, except the entrance
to the west. We are told, the wind and waves never
come from the west. Except, for the past two days and
nights. It has been a very rough anchorage.
Waves, probably up to 5 feet coming in the anchorage from the sea,
with up to 30 knot wind....not comfortable. The tide and rivers
are flowing out, so you not only rock in the waves, you also roll side
to side. But, our water tank is full.
We are ready to head to our next port of call.....Isla
Linton. Hopefully, to a calm anchorage.
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10/29 |
We arrived at Isla Linton and are just glad to be
here. The anchorage is calm and there is a nice, cool
breeze. Isla Linton is actually an uninhabited island, with an
abandoned house. But, there are three spider monkeys who
reside here. They will come out to the dock for you to
feed them, walking on their two hind legs. They will
gently take the food from you, but are not happy for you to leave.
They have been known to bite when cruisers are leaving them.
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10/30 |
Tonight we played music on Queen Mary with Gene and
Brenda, and Dennis and Pam (S/V Glide) and Dale (S/V Delbe II) and
Sandy (S/V Little Bit). It was a good, fun evening.
Gene,
on the Bass Guitar
Brenda, on the keyboard |
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Dale
and Sandy |
Sonny,
on the harmonica |
Dennis
and Pam |
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10/31 |
This morning, after the radio nets, Gene and Brenda
called to suggest, "Let's get in the water and go snorkeling".
We were ready. After the wind and rain here, the water was
not very clear, but it sure was good to get in and see fish again..
It has been a while and we all missed the water.
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The
end to another wonderful month in paradise.
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Panama in November |