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October, 2007

Valentina anchored in the beautiful Rio Chagres River
10/1 After spending a few days anchored in the flats at Colon and watching the huge ships coming and going through the Panama Canal, we provisioned and pulled up anchor and headed back to the tranquil Rio Chagres River. 

Ship just exiting the canal, probably 1/2 mile from our anchorage

 It is just absolutely beautiful here.  We have seen several breeds of monkeys, a sloth, toucans, and parrots.    You just anchor in the river and the rainforest is on both sides of you, so you can watch the monkeys as they pass by, rustling through the trees.   The howler monkeys are very small, but make a very loud roar.   In the states, you are awaken by barking dogs, here is it howler monkeys.   But, when we hear them, we both jump out of bed and hit the deck running to see them.

We are a few miles downstream from the Gatun Dam, which supplies the water for the locks in the canal, and during rainy season, they have more water than the locks can use, so they let water out of the dam.   There is a constant one - two knot current  of fresh water running downstream in the river.    It is rainy season, so it rains often.

One of our favorite pastimes in the evening,  the cruisers in the river get together and meet upstream in dinghies at about 5:15 p.m.     We each bring drinks and snacks, and we tie all of the dinghies together and float down the peaceful river for several hours discussing what exciting things we saw today.  Gary, on Kaija Song, saw a big black cat, a panther?  John and Diana, on Dragonet, spotted a 12' crocodile in one of the creeks. 

Dinghy Float Down the River with Max, Neos, Imagine, Dragonet, Queen Mary, Barefoot, Second Wind and Valentina

Jeremy of S/V Max climbed  aboard his sailboat on top of his boom to capture this photo as we passed by.

Sailors from Max, Neos, Imagine, Dragonet, Queen Mary, Barefoot, Second Wind

and Valentina floating down the river.

 

10/2 Last night, we were visited by mosquitoes and honey bees, so we moved upstream to get a better breeze without bugs.

We did a dinghy river float this evening, eight dinghies......fun.

 

10/3 We went down to the waterfall this afternoon and played in the water along with Queen Mary,  (Gene and Brenda), Max (Jeremy and Crystal) and Dragonet (John and Diana).   It is paradise.  Beautiful.

Enjoying the cool, cool waterfall pool.                Jeremy and Crystal (Max) ready to jump in.                        Sonny and Kay in the waterfall.

I made banana pudding today with the rest of our bananas that we have carried around for weeks, waiting to get ripe.   When they get ripe, they all get ripe, so we are now banana-free.

Music on Queen Mary night, we joined Barefoot (Steve and Mary), Max (Jeremy and Crystal) and Gene and Brenda for some music.   They played about an hour, when some strange wasp with white bodies started flying around the boat.   There were more and more.    All of a sudden, Gene got stung by about 4 or 5 of them, so we all left the cockpit and started spraying them.   They left.

.Gene and Brenda (Queen Mary) and Sonny making music.

   And the music resumed.

10/6 Boat Project Day......we worked today on installing a 12-volt outlet so we can charge the laptops inside on 12 volts, and our generator quit while running this morning, so Sonny replaced the impeller and a fuse.   It is down in a lazarette in the cockpit, not much room at all, and the generator is so compact, that working on it is nearly impossible.   But, what a relief when we got it done. \

 

10/7 Our friends from Blow Me Away and Kaija Song came floating into the river today from the Bocas area.   The three of us left the Rio Dulce River one year ago, and now are re-joined again.  It was good to reunite with them again.

                                   Blow Me Away                    Kaija Song

10/10 We are going to go to Shelter Bay Marina today to update the website and do some internet work.   It is more difficult getting internet here than anywhere we have been.   So, we will continue to update as often as we can.  So glad you are keeping up with us. 
10/15 Our friends, Steve and Colleen from Kemah (who also are proud owners of a Tayana 37, named Anchor Management) arrived today.  They came to Panama and toured the canal locks in Panama City, then flew to San Blas to spend a few days there, then back to Panama City.   Our taxi driver in Panama City, Tony, picked them up and brought them to the boat dock, here in the river, where we picked them up

.Steve and Colleen.....future cruisers.   Watch for them on Anchor Management.

It is so good to visit with old friends and ones who will be cruising on their boat in the near future.  We are glad they are staying on the boat so they can see what how rewarding the cruising lifestyle is.  

We showed them some of the small rivers off the Rio Chagres and saw a troop of howler monkeys.   We were in our dinghy in the river watching them crawl around, when, all of a sudden, Steve sneezed, and one monkey was startled, and fell down about 15 feet, only to grab another branch with his tail.   Wish we would have had the video camera on that one.  We went to the beautiful waterfall and played in the water. 

"I am watching you......"

Five little monkeys sitting in the tree, one fell down and bumped his knee...

Our best monkey picture, taken by Brenda on Queen Mary A troop of monkeys in the tree. also taken by Brenda.
   

          

10/16 This morning, after breakfast, Sonny, Steve and Colleen took the dinghy up to the dam to go to the Gatun Locks.   Such an impressive place.  Kay stayed on the boat and baked a couple of pecan pies.

On the path, they saw lots of howler monkeys, an anteater, and a capincho.   The anteater stood up on his back hind legs and raised his arms at them, at about 10 feet away.

10/17 There are so many animals in the rainforest.   Every day is a new day to see what you will find.   It is such a magical place.
10/18 This morning, we had a few projects to do on the boat, then we dinghied up the river (5 miles) to the entrance from the sea where Fort Lorenzo is high on the hill.   After walking around the fort, we all were ready for the "cold" water of the waterfall and ate lunch at the waterfalls.
Steve and Colleen at the waterfalls This cold water feels wonderful on a hot, hot day. Steve and Colleen under the waterfall

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Today, we explored more and played music on Queen Mary.   Gene and Brenda also had guests aboard, long-time friend Al and his new wife, Ophelia from Colombia.

10/19 This morning, we left at 7:15 a.m. and motored (no wind) to Portobelo, Panama.. 

We had the fishing line out the whole way and did not catch anything.  So about 3 miles out, Kay started to put it up and Sonny said, "No, let's leave it out....well, about one mile later, we caught a little tunny.   Steve and Colleen reeled him in.  He was a nice one.

"Fish On......" Steve reeled a while...... Then, Colleen reeled a while.  We got him!

 On the 21st of October, Portobelo celebrates the huge festival of the Black Christ.   We arrived at about 12:30 p.m. and went to town after a small rain shower.

Colleen is by one of the old US school buses that are colorful and used in Central America.

Colleen standing by a chicken bus.

Sonny, the man on the street, being interviewed.

A company was interviewing us to see how we liked Portobelo after we just came to shore, so we just said, "We want to see the Black Christ and eat". 

  I think our interview will be cut.

 

The church at Portobelo at the square.

Church of San Felipe that  houses the Black Christ

The church keeps the Black Christ behind this glass during the year and bring him out for the festival.

The statue of the "Black Christ" in the Catholic Church.

 

This was a very sincere man who we deeply respect.

 

Our first person we saw walking into the village was an elderly man with a limp.  We saw him as he turned the final corner to the church and could see his relief and reverence that he had made it.  He made the blessing sign of the cross from this forehead, to chest and side to side.  Kay met up with him later and talked with him.   He said he was 60 years old and had walked three days to get here.   This is his 39th consecutive year walking here.   He said he resembles the Black Christ. 

 

  Friends, Lyla, Kaija, Mary and SteveLyla Kaija, Mary, and Steve at Marco's restaurant, The Drake.       Aaron and GarySteve, Aaron, and Gary telling stories of their bus ride to Colon.

Aaron and Lyla on "Blow Me Away"

Kaija and Gary on "Kaija's Song"

Steve and Mary on "Barefoot"

 

Steve and Colleen left this evening for Panama City to prepare for their trip back to Kemah.   We sure enjoyed them on board and had a lot of fun with them.   We plan to meet up with them on their Tayana, Anchor Management, in the near future in the Caribbean.

10/20 We had to replace the belt on our generator this morning, then we went into town with Gene and Brenda (Queen Mary).   We ate all the good food from the street vendors.   It was like being at the State Fair.   We ate and ate....and ate.

One of the policemen told us that there would be 300 policemen in the village and over 200,000 people would come to Portobelo to participate in the annual Black Christ festival.   This is a very, very small village with only two streets. 200,000 people?   Many come on a bus, go to pay their tribute to the "Black Christ" and return.

This afternoon, when we were in town. people were already beginning to come into town.   It is told that people will walk for days, in the purple robes, to get to Portobelo to see the Black Christ and seek forgiveness of their sins.

 
The Black Christ behind the glass in the church with candles burning below.

 

 

In the church, before the procession.

In the church, they brought the statue of the Black Christ from behind the glass into the sanctuary,  During the procession from 8 p.m. to midnight on the 21st, there are 80 men carrying it, and they take three steps forward and two steps backwards.  That must be why it takes four hours for the procession through town.

 

First, we saw this lady scooting to the church on her bottom, then she would turn around and crawl on her hands and knees.

Crawling to the church to see the Black Christ.
This man was about 1/4 mile from the church, rolling on his back.  

Then, we saw this man, further from the church, inching his way down the street on his back,  rolling from side to side.

 

 

These men said they walked for two days to get here.  

They came from Panama City.

These guys are just arriving to town.

10/21 This morning, as we woke up at 6 a.m. we could hear the sound of horns and sirens, so we went to the cockpit to see what was happening.   We are on the other side of Portobelo Bay, about one mile away to the village.  We could see a solid line of people along the street coming into the village.  There is a police check point that checks every person for identification before they are allowed to come in.
 

 

 

The Legend of the Black Christ Festival

El Cristo Negro

The most popular version of the Black Christ story says a ship left Portobelo for Cartagena, Colombia during the last half of the 17th Century.  It had in its cargo hold a religious article packed in a large crate, which was consigned to Cartagena.   As the ship left Portobelo, a terrible storm drove the vessel back into the harbor.   Five times - according to legend - the Captain tried to sail away' each time the tempest returned without warning causing the ship to be in great peril.  During the final attempt, the crew - fearing for their lives - lightened the ship by casting the heavy box overboard.

When fishermen from Portobelo discovered the box with the image of Jesus floating in the water, they were astonished at the lack of respect shown by the sailors and they carried the image to their church to give it a place of honor.   Now, he resides in Iglesia San Felipe.

 

 
10/23 Today, we rose early and left the dinghy dock at 5:15 a.m. to catch the early bus to Colon, then switch to another bus to Panama City with Gene and Brenda (Queen Mary).   We had a good trip, picked up a blower for our battery compartment, a thru hull to replace the one that is broken, and lots of other boat parts.

 

The chicken bus is very crowded, with people standing the whole trip, very noisy, with the radio on as loud as possible and very decorated, with lights flashing and pictures painted on the outside and inside. 

A crowded chicken bus....can you hear the music?

 

We had the joy of this young lady sharing our seat with us along the way.   She is on her way to school in the City and is studying English.   She was very pleasant and sweet.   When she got off the bus, she stood there, waving goodbye to us.

A nice young lady on her way to school.

10/24 Today, we rode another Chicken Bus to Colon to get our zarpe from the Port Captain, so we can leave this region.   We will head down to Linton, and then Porveneir.    We stocked up on some last minute supplies before we head to San Blas, where supplies are very limited.
10/25 The Sisson Family, our middle son, Garrett, Madonna, and KylieHappy 4th Anniversary today to Garrett and Madonna.

 

 

It is also....our 16th wedding anniversary.   We are hoping to pick up our bottom paint today.   It is amazing how your wants and needs change while cruising.   Bottom paint is one of our best anniversary gifts to each other.  Whatever it takes to stay cruising is worth it.   Life is good.

10/26 Well, our bottom paint did not arrive.   Maybe two more weeks he said.   Life in Central America is always exciting.
10/28 Even in paradise, life does get rough sometimes, literally.    We are still anchored in the perfect anchorage, surrounded by mountains on every side, except the entrance to the west.   We are told, the wind and waves never come from the west.   Except, for the past two days and nights.   It has been a very rough anchorage.   Waves, probably up to 5 feet coming in the anchorage from the sea,  with up to 30 knot wind....not comfortable.  The tide and rivers are flowing out, so you not only rock in the waves, you also roll side to side.    But, our water tank is full.

We are ready to head to our next port of call.....Isla Linton.  Hopefully, to a calm anchorage.
Local children at the tienda getting snacks. Four friends having fun. Local Catholic Church in Porta Linda.

Exploring the sights and sounds at Isla Porta Linda and Isla Grande.

Sonny on the beach at Porta Linda Each island and village we visit are different with its own culture.
"Tunnel of Love" canal to Panamarina Going to shore at Isla Grande Gene, Brenda, Dennis and Pam in the mangrove canal.

 

10/29 We arrived at Isla Linton and are just  glad to be here.   The anchorage is calm and there is a nice, cool breeze.  Isla Linton is actually an uninhabited island, with an abandoned house.   But, there are three spider monkeys who reside here.   They will come out to the dock for you to feed them, walking on their two hind legs.   They will gently take the food from you, but are not happy for you to leave.   They have been known to bite when cruisers are leaving them.

 

"Welcome to my island, Isla Linton".

 

 

 

 

 

"Thank you, I love Ritz crackers with cheese"

 

 

 

 

"I am next, it is my turn!"
Sonny hands crackers to them. "Hey....what are you looking at?" "Can I jump in your boat with you?"
10/30 Tonight we played music on Queen Mary with Gene and Brenda, and Dennis and Pam (S/V Glide) and Dale (S/V Delbe II) and Sandy (S/V Little Bit).   It was a good, fun evening.  
Our buddy boaters, Gene and BrendaGene, on the Bass Guitar

                                Brenda, on the keyboard

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dale and Sandy are long time cruisers.Dale and Sandy
Sonny having fun....Sonny, on the harmonica Dennis and Pam are from Maine.Dennis and Pam
10/31 This morning, after the radio nets, Gene and Brenda called to suggest, "Let's get in the water and go snorkeling".   We were ready.   After the wind and rain here, the water was not very clear, but it sure was good to get in and see fish again..   It has been a while and we all missed the water.
Gene, Brenda and Sonny snorkeling Sonny in the water

 

"Life is Good".

The end to another wonderful month in paradise.

 

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